With its tall mirrors, tiled walls and tin ceilings, this rustic Italian eatery is every inch the classic trattoria. Hidden in plain sight just across from Grand Central Market, it is a known quantity with the local crowd, who fill these tables at all times of day. A few bites, and you’ll be ready to pledge allegiance to the Republic, too.

The array of excellent handmade pastas is seemingly endless, like long, tubular strands of bigoli della nonna, headlinng an impeccably balanced angus-and-sausage ragout. Then, try to pry yourself away from the noodle nexus and savory tomato-based sauces to savor freshly baked olive oil bread, deliciously paired with bites of polpettine di gamberi. Be sure to finish with a creamy affogato and be on your merry way.